The commercial heart of the Upper Ottawa Valley.
Pembroke is the largest town in Renfrew County with around 14,000 people, and it functions as the service centre for everything north of Arnprior. It has the hospital, the college (Algonquin College Pembroke campus), most of the county's government offices, and the widest selection of stores and restaurants in the area. It is not a tourist town, but it has more character than you would expect from a small Ontario city, mostly because of its waterfront and its murals.
Pembroke has over 35 large-scale outdoor murals painted on buildings throughout the downtown core. They depict local history: the lumber trade, river drives, early settlers, Indigenous heritage, and military connections. The quality is high — these are not amateur wall paintings. They were commissioned starting in the 1990s and the collection has grown steadily. You can walk the mural route in about an hour. The visitor centre on Mackay Street has a printed map, or just wander the blocks between Pembroke Street and the river and you will find most of them.
The murals are genuinely worth stopping for if you are driving through. They give you a fast education in Ottawa Valley history that you would not get any other way.
Pembroke's Ottawa River waterfront has been redeveloped with a walking path, an amphitheatre, and green space. The amphitheatre hosts free outdoor movies on Tuesday nights in summer — bring a lawn chair. The waterfront trail connects to Riverside Park, which has a decent playground and picnic area. The views across the Ottawa River to the Quebec shore are wide and open.
The Algonquin Trail (former rail corridor) passes through town and is usable for cycling and walking, though the surface quality varies. It connects Pembroke to Petawawa and beyond.
The Champlain Trail Museum on Pembroke Street East is a regional history museum with a restored 1867 schoolhouse, a pioneer log house, and exhibits on the lumber era, river navigation, and settlement. It is small but well done. The schoolhouse is the highlight — original desks, slate boards, and period details. Budget 45 minutes to an hour. Admission is modest.
The Skylight Drive-In on Highway 148 has been running since 1954 and is one of the last operating drive-ins in Ontario. Double features on weekends through the summer. Cash is easiest. Bring bug spray — the mosquitoes at dusk are aggressive. It is a genuine throwback and locals love it. Check their Facebook page for the current schedule.
Pembroke is the base for Ottawa River whitewater rafting. Owl Rafting, Esprit Whitewater, and Wilderness Tours all operate on the river sections near Foresters Falls, about 30 minutes east of town. This is some of the biggest commercially rafted whitewater in Canada — the Ottawa section has Class III-IV rapids that will soak you. Full-day trips run $100-150 per person including lunch. Book ahead for July and August weekends.
See also: Petawawa (20 minutes north), Arnprior (80 minutes southeast), and the local highlights guide.